On the sun-drenched streets of Accra’s bustling marketplaces, a familiar sight greets the thousands who navigate its frenetic pace: young women balancing heavy loads atop their heads, weaving through the crowds with quiet resilience. These women, known locally as Kayayei—female porters—are the lifeblood of the market, yet they remain invisible to many, living on the economic margins of a rapidly growing city.
Drawn from Ghana’s northern regions, they migrate south in search of greener pastures, leaving behind rural communities plagued by limited opportunities. But once in the capital, their dreams often clash with the harsh reality of urban life: precarious work, unsafe living conditions, and a daily struggle for survival.
For 25-year-old Amama Mbonwura, the story was no different—until recently.
Amama left her hometown of Damongo, in northern Ghana, after losing both parents shortly after completing senior high school. “My goal coming to Accra is to find an opportunity to acquire a skill for a sustainable economic livelihood and then return to the north,” she says, her voice steady with determination.
Ms. Amama Mbonwura
That opportunity came in the form of a three-day soap-making workshop organized by Water and Sanitation for Urban Populations (WSUP) under the HBCC 2 Hygiene Project, funded by Unilever. Partnering with the Kayaye Youth Association, WSUP trained 50 Kayayei like Amama in Accra, equipping them with skills to create handmade soap—a product vital for hygiene and increasingly in demand.
The training didn’t just teach soap-making. Each participant received a starter pack and seed money to kickstart their ventures, underscoring WSUP’s commitment to empowering these women beyond temporary solutions.
“For someone like me, being part of this training is like a dream come true,” Amama says. “I look forward to using the skills to build a business to support myself and also teach my sisters and others, so they can also support themselves and their families.”
The soap-making training is part of WSUP’s larger effort to promote hygiene and improve living conditions for marginalized communities in urban Ghana. The organization has also addressed another critical but often overlooked issue: menstrual hygiene.
In March 2023, dozens of Kayayei gathered in Accra for a session on managing menstrual hygiene with dignity. They learned about reusable sanitary pads—a more sustainable and cost-effective alternative to traditional disposable options.
“Most of us cannot afford sanitary pads every month,” one participant shared. “Learning how to make and care for reusable ones has been so helpful.”
The session emphasized not just practicality but also breaking the stigma surrounding menstruation—a topic still shrouded in taboo in many communities.
For organizations like WSUP, the work with Kayayei goes beyond immediate interventions; it’s about creating pathways for sustainable change. By equipping women like Amama with skills and resources, the initiative helps them build financial independence while reinforcing vital hygiene practices.
Amama dreams of returning to Damongo someday, not just as a survivor but as a changemaker. “I want to help other girls who are struggling, just like me. If I can teach them what I’ve learned, we can all create better lives for ourselves.”
In Accra’s crowded marketplaces, the sight of Kayayei continues to serve as a reminder of the economic disparity that drives so many young women south. But with projects like WSUP’s, there is hope that one day, these streets will also bear witness to the triumphs of women like Amama—balancing not just loads but their ambitions, with heads held high.